Wright approach to Karoo cuisine

2009/09/19
Louise Liebenberg

ROSE and Gordon Wright are so particular about the quality and origin of the food their family enjoys that, when they finally gave in to their sons nagging for a visit to the golden arches the boys quickly lamented having asked for plastic food.

Unlike most kids their age, these two boisterous boys, aged five and eight, just adore mum and dads organic veggies and other locally sourced ingredients and living in the Karoo provides plenty of both.

The Wrights gave up hectic city life about 18 months ago when, during one of their regular visits to the buzzing Karoo town of Graaff-Reinet they decided, to buy the Andries Stockenström Guesthouse, which was on the market.

And while initially slightly daunted by the prospect of their dramatic career changes Gordon was a high-flying investment banker while Rose had given up a successful reflexology practice in the Bay the Wrights immediately embraced their new roles with gusto.

It helped that Gordon had been passionate about cooking since childhood and had quite a reputation among family and friends for his inventive dishes, while Rose was an ace when it came to all manner of pickles and preserves.

A long-time connection to the town made the change of pace easier as both Rose and Gordon had attended Union High School and had wonderful memories of their time there so much so they also wanted their boys to enjoy a similar experience.

Life in the Karoo clearly has its benefits: The kids love their new life and are almost completely free - range now, Gordon quips.

Another obvious plus is the availability of the finest and freshest produce from the area much of it organic.

From the veld to your fork, I know exactly where its been, says Gordon, who will have either hunted the meat, caught the fish or personally inspected the animal before slaughter.

The Karoo cuisine he serves at Gordons Restaurant is a marvellous treat for foreign visitors in particular.

They want food that is authentic and true to the region theyre visiting.

And what could be truer to the Karoo than biltong and venison both of which are cleverly and deliciously applied in dishes like Gordons port and biltong soup a rich and intriguing winter starter or soft-as-butter kudu fillet served with stir-fried sweet-potatoes with a hint of fresh ginger, garlic and carrot juice, finished off with a red-wine reduction.

Or you could try, as I did, his fantastic baked guineafowl springroll served with wild rocket and a raisin-muscadel sauce South African flavour at its best followed by best-ever deboned leg of Karoo lamb served with crushed potatoes, garden veggies and Madeira sauce.

Neither did the pud disappoint Salvelio had a baked pancake creation filled with home-made vanilla ice-cream and a pear and brandy sauce as far from a church bazaar pancake as you could ever hope to stray while I am still trying to figure out how Gordon made that very moreish frozen nougat slice stuffed with nuts and dotted with fresh granadilla sauce.

Dinner presently costs R250 per person, with a choice of two starters, two main courses, and two desserts, and Gordon also serves kudu pate with home-baked bread.

You dont have to stay at the guesthouse to dine here either, excellent news for natives of the town who for too long had been denied the opportunity to experience such excellent cuisine.